In D.C., a push for better restaurants east of the Anacostia River

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At Mama's Kitchen in Anacostia, most patrons don't know that the owner's name is Fatma Nayir or that she commutes every day from Bethesda to their scuffed corner of Martin Luther King Jr. Avenue SE.

What they know is that Mama, as they invariably call her, removed the rusted security grates from the picture windows after opening in October; that she cut out the protective glass that separated previous proprietors from their customers; that her smiling face is behind the counter seven days a week, wire-rimmed glasses on her nose and thick gray hair tied in a bundle; and that she put in four tables, each of them covered by a red-checkered tablecloth.

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