The reduction of Roberto Donna

The manager zipping around Galileo III is multi-tasking like mad on a Tuesday night in mid-August. She not only seats guests in the half-empty dining room but also mixes them cocktails, because the bartender is apparently AWOL. As if that weren't enough, she also takes orders and even runs food from the kitchen, where her boss, chef Roberto Donna, looks to be straining with a limited staff himself.

The current menu at Galileo III mirrors the downsizing in the kitchen and dining room. What was once a robust, sometimes adventurous 24-dish dinner menu when the place opened in early October has been whittled to 18 simpler plates, not one of which is Donna's signature (and time-consuming) risotto. Other plates are missing in action as well, notably an intricate savory pudding with fresh burrata and porcini cream that the critics loved as well as an organ-meat tasting menu.

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Neil Irwin 24 Aug, 2011


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